Muslining the Japanese Jacket, Today's Trash Find, and Laura Mae!

Let's start with today's trash find.

I know, I know, I'm supposed to be ditching.  But all ditch and no dumpster makes MPB a dull blog.  Look what I found on my afternoon dog walk!







Who can't use a decorative gilt mirror?

Meanwhile, I spent more hours than I care to admit working on the muslin of my Japanese coat, which henceforth I shall refer to as a jacket.  I decided to trace the size Medium instead of the Small.  Since this garment will be lined and likely worn over sweaters, I think that makes more sense, don't you? 

Tracing the pattern pieces and adding seam allowances wasn't that big a deal, but it did take a lot of concentration and time on my knees.







The diagrams in the pattern book are relatively clear, thankfully.  I'm adding only 1/2" seam allowances, at least for this trial run.  (I may need a wider allowance at the hem.)



I'm using an old thrift store sheet for the muslin.  The pattern is miniature white Scotties.







I'll post photos of me in it when I've finished the collar, hopefully tomorrow.

In other news, I rarely highlight other people's finished projects -- that's what THEIR blogs are for -- but can we talk about Laura Mae for a moment?



I'm not a huge fan of Rachmaninoff's Piano Concerto No. 2, inspiration for the film scores of a thousand women's weepies, but Laura Mae was going to her local symphony gala to hear it and needed something to wear, so she whipped this up.



Not only did she sew the dress, she embellished it with beads, created a matching hat, belt and handbag, peacock feather brooch and shoe clips.  And padded her hips.  And dyed her gloves.  I also suspect she donned false eyelashes.  I say Brava!  You can say what you like by visiting her over at her blog, Lilacs & Lace. 

With that -- Happy Halloween, everybody!

(Pass the hankies...)

A Reader Asks: "Could My Sewing Idea Work?"

Friends, I received a very interesting email from MPB reader Chris today, and I thought I might run it by you (with Chris's permission of course) and find out what you think.

Here's Chris:

I ran across your blog recently, and since you write about sewing a lot, I was hoping I could ask for some feedback about a sewing-related idea I've had recently. I love to sew, but hate to lay out the pattern and cut the fabric - I always just want to get to the actual sewing!

So I've had this idea that I've been trying to figure out if anyone else would want - I imagine a website where you could enter your measurements, pick your fabric, and pick your pattern, and get the pre-cut fabric pieces shipped to your door, ready for sewing!  (A variation is that it would just print the pattern right on the fabric, but not cut it out.)



So my question is: do you think anyone else would want a service like that?  It removes some of the fun of picking your fabric in person, and messing with the pattern - but it would seem to save so much time, and get you right to the good stuff.

Anyway, I was just curious to get people's reaction to my idea, and if you had any thoughts about it.  Thanks!

What do you think, readers?  Could you imagine something like this taking off?  (Naturally, I am trusting that none of you will steal Chris's idea -- that wouldn't be in the spirit of MPB, would it?)

There does seem to be a market for sewing shortcuts, easy patterns, machines that do it all, etc.

Is Chris onto something?  Could his idea be part of the future of home sewing or is this the sewing-equivalent of a Betty Crocker cake? (Or both)

Jump in!

Taking the Japanese Pattern Challenge, More Ditching + My New Boots!

Let's start with the boots, shall we?

As an American, I am very vulnerable to the phrase "40% off."  And the word "Nordstroms."  Add "Free Shipping" and I am helpless.

This is the Red Wing Moc Toe boot.

Be honest: are these boots too Brooklyn hipster for me?  I don't care, I'm keeping them because...40% off!  Plus they fit and are super-comfy.

Moving on, the ditching continues.  I took two big bags of Michael's clothes -- his choices, mind you -- to the Salvation Army today, plus I sold the plastic cart below (I still have one in orange) on Craigslist last week.  Which is sort of why I felt I could treat myself to boots. 





That's the true challenge of selling your used stuff: it's hard not to spend the money you've made on new stuff.  Still, I'm very proud of myself for not bidding on a vintage Necchi Supernova on eBay this afternoon -- I consider that progress.

But there's still more news!  I have decided to take the Japanese Pattern Challenge and sew myself one of the jackets from the Japanese men's coat pattern book I recently purchased.  Duane did it, Sunni did it, Claudine did it.  What's to fear?



This is the coat I want to make. 



 



Even though I fit in Claudine's coat (a size Small), I may go for the Medium.  I'm right on the edge, size-wise.  At least I think so: I don't read Japanese.



I am assuming that second measurement down refers to Chest.  Mine is roughly 92 cm around.



Anyway, I spent some time today examining the pattern that comes with the book and it doesn't really seem all that daunting.





Even though the instructions are in Japanese, the drawings are clear.  As you can see, this will be a lined coat.







I have no idea what fabric I will make this out of (probably not leopard print wool knit).  I'll certainly want to make a muslin first, which I hope to do this week. 

And that's it!  I am excited to be starting a new project, especially one that involves a pattern I'm unfamiliar with.  I hope Mainely Dad doesn't mind late-night phone calls!

Have a great day, everybody!

What Should I Make With This Fabric? + Claudine's Waxy Buildup!

Greetings from the bike lanes of New York City!

So I made a somewhat impulsive fabric purchase on Saturday and I'm not sure what to do with it.  It's two and a half yards of an Italian leopard print wool knit in black and gray tones.  Originally I thought sweats, now -- after realizing it's not all that cuddly soft -- I'm thinking some kind of coat or jacket.  It's almost felted and and not particularly stretchy. 







The trick, I think, is in making sure this doesn't end up looking like cheap fleece.  Goodness, I hope animal prints aren't already played out...

In other news, I spent much of today in the leafy suburbs of New Jersey, where I visited talented sewing blogger Claudine, who had invited me to experiment with waxing fabric.  (I'd expressed an interest in waterproof outerwear fabrics in a post a few weeks ago.)  Claudine recently made this beautiful silk coat using a pattern from the famous Japanese Men's Coat Pattern Book I just bought, and she applied wax to it herself.  I tried it on and with the exception of the sleeves being a bit short, it fit perfectly, so I guess if I can go with the size Small.





Today she demonstrated her fabric-waxing process on black cotton twill.

She uses a blend of beeswax, linseed oil, and turpentine, which she mixed herself.  Apparently what you don't use on your fabric you can apply to your legs.

Claudine melted her wax by pouring boiling water into a larger tin and letting it sit for a few minutes.





We then took the molten wax outside, along with Claudine's cotton twill.



Claudine smeared the wax on the fabric with a rag.





I watched and took photos.



Finally, Claudine hung the fabric on a clothesline and remelted the wax with the aid of heat gun -- an appliance I'd never even heard of but which is apparently popular in the the suburbs for tasks like melting paint off walls and killing spiders.



As the wax melts, it disappears into the twill weave.  The fabric is now stiffer, though still quite supple, and there's no visible white residue.  She then lets it air out for 24 hours.  

You can read more about Claudine's experiments with wax on her blog.



I have to hand it to Claudine: not only does she wax fabric, dye, and embroider, she also owns a home mangle -- another appliance (this one more directly sewing-related) I had never heard of.   It's actually where the verb "to mangle" comes from, as in, "I mangled my left hand in my home mangle."  

Anyway, thank you for a lovely afternoon, Claudine!

In closing friends, two questions:

1) Have you ever waxed fabric and, if so, did you use a method similar to Claudine's?

2) What would you make with two and a half yards of leopard print knit?

Happy Monday, everybody!

"Patternmaking For Menswear" by Gareth Kershaw -- My Dream Book!

Readers, after publishing the sumptuous, "Draping: The Complete Course" by Karolyn Kiisel last month, what could Laurence King Publishing possibly do for an encore?

I now know the answer!  It is the equally superb "Patternmaking for Menswear" by Gareth Kershew, which has just been released and a complimentary copy of which I was fortunate to receive from Laurence King last week.





As most of you know, menswear is generally created from flat patterns, or slopers, based on specific body measurements.  "Patternmaking For Menswear" expertly guides the reader through all the specifics of this process in clear detail.

It's all here: how to take men's measurements, creating basic slopers, supplies needed, grading, and so much more.  NOTE: The focus here is patternmaking, not sewing or specific tailoring techniques.











The book includes instructions on how to create twenty different projects -- shirts, pants, and outwear.  These designs are contemporary, even hip.  If brand names like Woolrich Woolen Mills, C.P. Company and Engineered Garments mean anything to you, you'll find many of the designs in this book drawn from their inspired updating of classic American workwear and outdoor gear.





















"Patternmaking for Menswear" is beautifully designed, generously illustrated and extremely well-written.

If you are interested in designing menswear, or already create menswear for yourself or for others, I think you will find this book a must-have.  (It is available for sale on Amazon -- approximately $38 as of today)

I can't wait to put it to use.

You can see many more photos from "Patternmaking for Menswear" here.  I think you'll be impressed.

Enjoy!