Pendleton's Native American Inspired Shirts - also in tall!

I first came across Pendleton because of their blankets inspired by Native American designs. More recently, I've been seeing Native American-inspired triangular patterns on more and more clothing and Pendleton is a company that has been weaving wool in the US for over 100 years.

The men's designs range from more traditional checked shirts to some clearly Native American themed jackets and shirts. They do have a tall range, which offers extra length in the sleeve and body although it looks like this may only suit men up to around 6'4".

Swimsuits 2, 3, & 4 (including Michael's Marc Jacobs Floral Print Square Cut)

Readers, in one of those "only could happen to Peter" moments of which I experience so many, I was walking the dogs yesterday when what do I discover discarded at a nearby curb but a pile of clean swimwear knit remnants (above).  I took it as a sign that I am aligned with my purpose.

They're not as high quality as the stuff I'd purchased earlier in the week, but all in all not bad.  I've already made two suits out of them!

I started with the orange and black flame print, and this time made a standard Speedo-style suit (using vintage McCall's 3428).



Instead of lining the whole thing, I just lined the front, using the same fabric for the lining. 



This time I added only one drawstring hole, which does the job.





I turned the serged edges under approximately 1/2" on the waistband and 1/4" on the legs.   The edges of the lining panel don't fray so I left those as-is.



Ta da!





OMG: This, this and this!

Next, I took the neon green floral print and made a similar suit for Michael.  Mikey likes it!





Finally, I made a square cut suit for Michael, using the grayish green Marc Jacobs floral print he favored.  Rather than lining the whole thing, I created an inner brief with my lining material and inserted it into my outer suit.  (This is yet another way men's swimsuits are often lined.)





Ta da!



By this point, I was really tired of sewing swimsuits, so I turned to something else: my purple and green patterned shirt from earlier in the week.

I felt it needed a breast pocket.  So I made one.  You'd need eagle eyes to even tell it's there, but it's a handy place to put sunglasses.







Last but not least, do you remember those 75 unclaimed patterns left over from MPB Day?  Well, thanks to attendee Karen D., they have now been donated to the Queens Central Library Sewing Club.  Off my hands and into someone else's!

Readers, this may be the last time you hear from me this month. 

I wish you all a great end of August and, like the song says...

Swimsuit #1: Square-Cut Tropical Print (NSFW?)

Let's face it: there's not a lot of tailoring in a mens swimsuit.  It's basically two or three pieces of fabric stitched together with the top folded-over to create a casing for a drawstring.  But it has to fit.  And ideally it's finished in a professional way.  That's my ideal anyway.

I made four muslins before cutting into the first of my three swimwear knits.  The muslins all fit but each one was a little different (they'll all become underwear).  I basically worked from Jalie 3242 and made the boxer brief.  I removed the separate crotch panel and added extra width to the front crotch to compensate.  (I'm not a fan of those codpiece fronts on swimsuits.)   I also added a back center seam rather than cutting the back on the fold as Jalie suggests.  It saves fabric and provides an additional fitting seam.



The red and tan striped cotton knit is the version I went with.   Grab your smelling salts, girls!





I experimented with serger stitch density (I used all four threads on my Brother 1034D) and practiced making buttonholes on knit.  I decided to skip the grommets this time around and just make holes on the inside casing, just like my RTW swimsuits have.  Mine are reinforced with tear-away stabilizer.











My lining has approximately the same stretch as my fashion fabric.  I basted the lining to the fashion fabric with a long zigzag before serging.  I used a regular needle, an Organ #9, the thinnest I sew with.  No skipped stitches or problems of any kind using my Kenmore 158.141.





Then I serged away.



I made two buttonholes in what would be the inside of my casing.





Before stitching the casing down, I used my Bernina 930's long basting stitch to hold the folded-over edge in place.



Then I stitched at the inner edge of the fold (approx. 1") using the elastic triple straight stitch setting.   The stitches are dense (they're stitched forward and back) and have a lot of give.  Then I went around again 1/4" from the first line of stitching.

I used the stitch to the right of the "S" at the top of the dial: the elastic triple straight stitch.

I inserted my drawstring and voila: a square-cut tropical print swimsuit.  (The drawstring's hanging out but I'll wear mine in.)



Now I swear that large black leaf emerging from my left crotch is entirely coincidental, but it did make me laugh.  (Debbie C., if you're there, I know you'll get a chuckle.)





Michael was very impressed and, frankly, I'm surprised at how straightforward it was to make this, provided you have the proper tools and suitable fabrics (and practice on scraps before tackling the real thing).

And that's it -- now on to swimsuit #2!

Have a great day, everybody!

My New Summer Outfit -- Modeled TODAY!

My finished project is live today -- just click here.

A confession: I had the two fabrics above sitting in my stash for a year. 

Longtime readers may remember that last August I was working on a 1920's pajama and kimono outfit for Cathy.  These were the fabrics I was planning to combine:



But when I finished the outfit, the lilac swiss dot didn't seem to harmonize with the other more muted shades.





And I could never figure out how to cut that (arguably) Moorish-inspired print into narrow trim.  So it sat.

Here's Cathy's finished outfit, which I loved (as did she).



I ended up taking the swiss dot pajama pants apart and keeping the fabric for something else.  And that something else turned out to be a shirt.  And the printed pattern became another shirt.

Add pale chartreuse linen shorts and, bingo!, instant summer outfit suitable for seaside strolling, which I hope to engage in next week.

Have a great day, everybody!



PS - If you missed it, you can see Cathy's entire 1920's pajama and kimono photo shoot here.

Three Days to Whip Up Some Swimsuits

With my latest shirts and linen shorts finished (they debut tomorrow), I still have three days to sew some last-minute holiday togs.

What could be faster than a swimsuit -- with grommets no less!





I have never inserted grommets before but I'm going to learn how in the next few days.  I assume any knit fabric will need to be interfaced (or reinforced) before the grommet is attached.  Anybody know?

As for fabric, I picked up half a yard of three very different swimsuit knits today, plus lining.

The first is a gray Marc Jacobs floral print.





The second is this multicolored paisley print:





And finally, this red, white, and black tropical print.





Here's my lining:



I have clear swimsuit elastic somewhere; I'll dig that out.  And if I use the grommets I'll have to buy some nylon lacing for a drawstring.   (I also have knit interfacing if I need it -- a sturdy stabilizer for the grommets might work better.)

I have plenty of swimwear patterns to choose from.  I'll probably start with something with a Speedo-style cut.  In addition to the patterns, I have plenty of RTW swimsuits to examine.



Having made swimsuits before with mixed success, I know that, aside from the cut, it's all about the finishing.  I don't have a true coverstitch machine but I'll have to do my best with just a serger and sewing machine.  Luckily I have lots of fabric to experiment with.

Four years ago I made these and they came out pretty well, though the fabric was kind of gross.



I used regular elastic in those for some reason but the finish looks OK and the suit feels secure.



Anyway, this should keep me busy for the next few days.

Any swimsuit experts out there?

Have a great day, everybody!