Friday, February 27, 2015

I'm Going on a Safari....



Behold my latest pattern purchase, Folkwear 130, up top.

It's called an "Australian Bush Outfit" but isn't that the same thing as a safari outfit?  If you're from Down Under, maybe you know.  It's a unisex pattern and includes long pants and/or shorts along with the jacket.

Here's an ad for a similar ensemble:



I made something highly suggestive of a safari jacket a few years ago, but it was actually a wearable muslin in a stretchy fabric I'd found for cheap.  Michael still likes to wear it, however.





You may know that there was something of a safari jacket craze in the 1970's, with lots of men's and women's patterns to choose from.  I think Yves Saint Laurent is responsible for this from what I recall.  Eventually this classic look morphed into the double knit leisure suit.





















Mainely Dad made a great-looking version in 2012 -- so many nice details. 



I'm not sure what fabric I'm going to use on my version.  This week I picked up two possibilities, neither a classic khaki.  The first is this medium-weight light blue cotton woven:





The second option -- and my current preference -- is this metallic silver- coated cotton twill.   Whether I'm going on a safari or just hanging out in the urban jungle, I want to look glamorous.







I'm going to want to make a muslin of the jacket first, of course.  I'm hoping to receive the Folkwear pattern early next week.

And that's it!

Any fans of the safari look out there?

Have a great day, everybody!

 

Monday, February 23, 2015

Jeans Genie? Peter Models Two Pairs of Jeans!



Today's the day!

To see me model my white jeans and indigo jeans, just click here.

I'm happy with both pair, though I'm not sure if I'll be wearing the white ones much till the weather dries out a bit.

While the jeans journey has officially ended, you already know that my pants-making process continues.

Question: Do dark pants make you look taller than light pants?  (And if so, why?) Enquiring minds want to know.

Have a great day, everybody!

Saturday, February 21, 2015

Chicken Soup and Dress Pants



I can't remember if I mentioned that my Mom, who has made a remarkable recovery from emergency hip surgery last November, has been staying with us.

Three months ago I wasn't sure how quickly she'd bounce back, but I am happy to report that she's not only back on her feet but also back in the kitchen -- one of her favorite places -- and cooking up a storm.  She makes excellent soups, and this week whipped up a chunky chicken soup we devoured.  I'd share the recipe but she doesn't follow a recipe.  She just wings it with consistently excellent results.  Currently simmering on the stove: lentil.







Meanwhile, in sewing land, I'm almost finished with my khaki cotton trousers.  Having just made two pairs of jeans, I was reminded that dress pants are much more challenging.



The fabric I'm using is smooth, lightweight, and light-colored.  Every imperfection shows plainly, in my opinion at least.  A few close-up pics of how things are developing:

I finished most of my seam allowances with my serger.  Seams are pressed on the narrow edge of my June Tailor board so as not to leave an indentation on the front. 



I skipped the instructions and used commercial waistbanding.  I'm not sure if it made finishing the waistband any easier, but it does give the pants a more professional look.





For me, dress pants are harder to fit than jeans as the last seam completed is the center back (i.e, butt), which is challenging to fit on oneself.  With jeans, the last seams finished are the side seams.

 The welt pockets I complained about the other day no longer seem so bad.  The next time I make these pants I'll do a neater job.  I can't put a buttonhole in these with my buttonholer, so if I want a functioning buttonhole I'll have to have it done at Jonathan Embroidery.  Another option is to add a button loop under the seam above the welt.  Or pocket flaps.





Here's a peek of the pants from the front and side.  They will benefit from a good pressing.





And that's it.  I may not post these in full till March; I still feel like there's a lot of room for improvement and I'd like to make a second pair.

Right now, however, it's time for some more soup.

Have a great day, everybody!

Wednesday, February 18, 2015

Dress Pants Muslin -- Simplicity 4971



My third and final pair of pants for February is Simplicity 4971, a men's shirt jacket and slim pants pattern which dates from approximately 1963.

I needed to make a muslin first so I dug out an old percale bedsheet and went to work.  I already knew I'd have to shorten the rise approximately 2" and the pants length about 4".  I also added 1" to the outer edge of the back and side pieces at the top, as you can see below.  Right now my hips and my waist are approximately the same width.



I cut just the two fronts and the two backs, skipping the fly and the waistband.  The fit was good.









Yesterday I started the pants in my fashion fabric, a lightweight khaki cotton weave.





I chose matching thread from my thread stash.  I didn't feel like buying something new and there isn't much visible topstitching in these pants anyway.







Yesterday I completed the front fly and, today, the back single welt pockets, which gave me a lot of trouble.  Next time I'm going to add the pocket bag separate from cutting the welt (i.e., after).  Pulling all that fabric (the pocket bag) through from the front rarely results in a perfectly angled corner -- too many layers to clip through.





My smooth cotton fabric is not forgiving and I may add two pocket flaps to cover these up.  I know there's nothing more tedious than hearing sewers complain about their welt pockets so apologies.

I hope to finish these pants by the weekend in time to do our three-pants photo shoot (white twill, blue denim, and cotton khaki), tentatively scheduled for Sunday.  Cross your fingers the weather is mild as I'll be changing in the street, no joke.

Have a great day, everybody!

I wore my me-made suit and shirt to a Toastmaster's contest last night and won first prize in the speech evaluation competition!