I'll See You In September!

Vacation Eve!

I have not been out of town in a very long time and I'm really looking forward to a break in my routine.  Can't wait to eat some lobster!



I spent most of today sewing what I think is going to be a very beautiful shirt (I'm a very last-minute packer).  I love the fabric and it's a pleasure to sew with.



Oddly enough, though I have many, many shades of blue thread, I didn't have the right one for this particular blue, so early this morning I whizzed up to Sil Thread on 38th St., where of course I found what I needed.  Love that place!



The back yoke of the shirt is cut on the bias.  It's subtle but I like it.



Here's a little video of me topstitching -- not sure if you have to have an Instagram account to see it, hope not.

I also needed a contrast fabric for the solid blue below right, a very different blue from the one up top.  The print I chose (on the left) is likely to be used for the inside collar, inside pocket flaps -- if there are any -- and maybe the front placket on the button (right) side, which is largely covered by the buttonhole (left) side.  Of course, on a woman's blouse it's just the opposite.   Anyway, it's not going to be highly visible but will add a bit of interest.



And that's it.  I've been running a lot lately, and Provincetown is one of my all-time favorite places to run (but not to swim, oddly enough).  I've been adjusting to the most minimal running shoes I've ever worn, called Zero shoes.  They're the closest thing to barefoot and I'm totally sold on them.  I wear mine with five-toed socks.  Pretty wacky, right?



In closing, I wish all of you a great week and I will see you soon! 

PS -- I should be posting daily to Instagram if you want to see some vacay pics before my return.  Have smartphone, will travel!

Modeling My New Summer Outfit or "Pink Pants-a--palooza"

Readers, my last Mood outfit of the summer is complete!

Click here to see it.

I know what you're thinking: wasn't that beige cardigan intended for Michael?  Yes, it was. But is it wrong to share your clothes with a similarly-sized loved one?  I think not!

If the pink fabric I made the pants from looks familiar, it should -- it's the same cotton canvas I used for Susan's pencil skirt.  (I even used a remnant of the blouse for my pockets.  Waste not, want not, I always say.)

I don't always remember to thank Michael for taking all my photos, but I do want to acknowledge his tremendous contributions over the years (for Cathy too).  I am tremendously fortunate to have someone around who's willing to pick up a camera at a moment's notice (or nearly).  Without him, it would be an endless stream of Instagram selfies.

I'm really love the beige cardigan (which is basically identical to the blue one I made last year) and I'm quite smitten with the pink pants as well.  In case you're wondering, I was inspired by these (below), from Steven Alan, both for the fit and the fabric.



Have a great day, everybody and think pink!

Liked It So Much, I Made Another!

One of the garments I'm complimented on most frequently when I wear it is the blue cotton shawl-collar sweater I made a little over a year ago.

You may recall -- or didn't I ever tell you? -- that I purchased this sweater knit in two colors: blue, which I used right away, and sand, which I haven't.  Or rather hadn't.  Michael has been asking for his own sweater since I made mine, and I finally got around to making it this weekend.

Here's what the knit looks like -- a friend of mine who's a textile designer said it's knit in the round (I think) which explains why the right side of the fabric doesn't run perfectly horizontal, but rather at a slight angle.  Did I understand her correctly?  You buy it off the bolt like any fabric (i.e., it's not in a big loop).  Maybe you know.







Anyway, once again I'm using vintage McCall's 5267.  I love this pattern and it goes together easily.  Someone on Instagram asked me if I serge the seams and I replied that I do not: I stitch them with my Singer 15-91 (the machine I've been using most this week) and then serge the seam allowances.  It's a very heavy knit and serging the seams -- while totally do-able -- doesn't look as nice as stitching them with a sewing machine and finishing the seam allowances.



This time I lined my front patch pockets with leftover paisley fabric from Zack's shirt (and my boxers):



I'm mostly done, I just have to whip stitch down some seam allowances so they lay flat, buy buttons, and make (or have made) buttonholes.  Hopefully tomorrow.

This just in: I got a new pattern!  It's Butterick 5811, a unisex (!) raglan-sleeve jacket pattern.  Looks like something that might be fun for the fall with a knit waistband and collar.



I have a busy week ahead: a pair of pants are in the pipeline, as well as a few shirts for clients, before we leave town for a week's vacation.  Hope the summer weather holds out a while longer.  

Have a great day, everybody!

The Mystery of Phoebus Dressmaking Patterns

So I was surfing aimlessly through the vintage pattern pages over at Etsy, as I am wont to do from time to time, when I stumbled upon this.

Perhaps these dressmaking patterns, produced in 1975 by the Phoebus Publishing Company and distributed by Columbia House, are familiar to you.  I'd never heard of them, though I had seen a few for sale upon reflection; originally I thought they were just Big 4 patterns missing their envelopes.

There were 80 in all and they included multi-sized patterns for women, children, men, and even dolls!













Many were multi-sized.  I think you were expected to trace them.



I like the fact that there were only diagrams of the finished garments so, using them today, you're not distracted by photographs (which can look extremely dated) or campy illustrations.

I'm intrigued, readers.  You can find whole sets of these for sale and at decent prices if you're willing to hunt.  The whole thing sounds a bit like those book-of-the-month club offerings or those recipe cards I'd see advertised on TV when I was growing up.  Like the recipe cards, I believe these patterns came with their own avocado green storage container!

In closing, can anybody solve the mystery of Phoebus?  Did you ever own these or -- gasp! -- sew one of them?

Since I still have a bag of 85 unloved patterns leftover from MPB Day, I'm not sure I'm ready to bring 80 more patterns into my life at this moment, but you never know.  I mean, if the price is right....

Have a great day, everybody!

Susan Models Summer Separates!

Susan's back and looking sensational!

I met Susan downtown yesterday for a quick repast and lightning-fast modeling session of the skirt and blouse I designed for her.  Susan's blouse is made from a vivid cotton poplin Liberty of London floral print.



Her pencil skirt is a bottom-weight soft cotton woven.  The color is a pale raspberry.  It coordinates with the floral beautifully.



The fitted blouse buttons in front and has a simple mandarin collar and short sleeves.  It flares slightly below the waist.  The skirt has four darts and a kick pleat in back.  Rather than use petersham ribbon, I stayed the waistline with a strip of the same Liberty print from her blouse.



I trimmed the inside hem with lace and hand stitched it in place.



Here's more of the the outfit on Susan on a rather windy Wednesday.  I love these colors and patterns on her.  They're summery but sophisticated.  The lines are simple and unfussy.







I'm delighted by the way she looks in this outfit.  It flatters her figure and captures her sunny personality.

Thank you, Susan, for the opportunity to sew for you!

The Scary World of Sewing Labels (and what they should say)

I feel like now that I'm doing a lot of sewing for others, it's time to order some custom labels.

I mean, I think most clients would prefer to have a garment with a label in it, don't you?  It's part of the package.



Labels are something I've never thought about until now.  I know a lot of people like them, even for themselves or, especially, for gifts.

I've done a little research and there are countless places that will run up some embroidered labels for you at a pretty fair price, with as many options of sizes, colors, images, and wording as a person could wish.



I know I don't want one of those "sewn with love by _______" labels, not that I don't love sewing of course.  I just don't want to come across crafty or homespun.

I came up with these (below) on my own; the color choice was random but I did choose the fonts.





I think that says it all, don't you?

Or doesn't it say enough?

You may be wondering why I'm not using Male Pattern Boldness.  For one thing, it's a little too long, and for another, it's a bit -- dare I say it? -- silly.

I've seen labels that include phone numbers and websites, but if someone sees your label and wants to know more, wouldn't they just Google it?  I would.

A friend who's very happy with her labels recommended a place called CustomLabelsForU.com.  I haven't called them yet but I may give them a buzz tomorrow.  I envision these labels being attached to the inside yoke of my shirt, either stitched all around or attached with a satin stitch in four corners.  Does that sound right?  (So I would want what they refer to as a "straight cut" -- or something with folds?)

I envision this type of thing (non-scratchy, btw):



If you have any recommendations, I'd love to hear them.

Are you a label-lover, even for the things you sew for yourself?

Have a great day, everybody!

Ed's Second Shirt -- Pink and Blue Gingham!

I've been sewing a lot for the past few days and I'm happy to say I am 95% finished with Ed's second shirt (above).

He returns tomorrow to California but I did get a chance to photograph him in it this afternoon.  All it lacks is buttonholes and buttons.  I made the same alterations that I made to his linen shirt, lowering the neckline a bit and increasing the circumference of the neck.  This was a much easier fabric to cut and to sew with since it didn't shift.



Here's the shirt on Ed.  I'm very happy with the way it looks on him (just pinned closed of course).







One alteration I made to the pattern (for both shirts) was to gather the sleeve at the cuff rather than to pleat it.  I think a gathered cuff is more attractive.  The pink and blue gingham shirt has traditional sleeve plackets; the linen shirt has continuous lap plackets (which the original pattern calls for and is rather unusual).





 Rather than use cotton batiste, I interfaced front button placket, collar, collar stand, and cuffs with a very lightweight woven fusible, from Mood, I think.  I tested it out first on a fabric swatch (below).



The back yoke and cuffs are cut on the crossgrain.



I'll put the finishing touches on the shirt in the next few days and will be sending the shirts out to Ed this coming week.  It's been really fun making two shirts back-to-back with such different fabrics, each of which has its own unique character and feel.

Next up, some women's separates.

Have a great day, everybody!