Wednesday, August 28, 2013

Back to the Kimono



There are two kinds of sewing projects, readers: the ones you think will be hard but end up easy, and the ones you think will be easy but end up hard.  My kimono is the latter kind.

A robe like this should be easy: it's just two fronts (right and left), a back, and two sleeves.  But I'm frankenpatterning here without instructions and I've added long kimono sleeves that attach to the torso along half their length, and hang open along the rest.  I decided to close the torso sides, which isn't classic kimono but seemed easier and more robe-like.



There are a lot of seams to finish and I probably didn't finish them in the best/easiest way.  I used French seams on the shoulders.  I flat-felled the armscye and side seams -- not easy with a delicate cotton lawn fabric.  To finish the open end of the sleeve (not the cuff, but the end beneath the armscye) I rolled 1/4" twice and stitched.  At the point where the sides and armhole meet, I had to clip 5/8" into my fabric (since the top of the side piece attaches to the sleeve and the bottom attaches to the back, creating a very fragile area.



To strengthen the area on both the torso side and the sleeve, I cut four triangular gusset-like pieces of fabric and stitched them along what's essentially the underarm.  It wasn't difficult but it was painstaking. 







The result is nearly invisible.



Maybe there's a better way to have addressed this issue but I couldn't come up with one.

Meanwhile, I attached my cotton sateen trim to the sleeves, the neckline and fronts, and the hem.



I used the trim pattern piece from my vintage Eighties Butterick kimono pattern.  The trim is cut parallel to the grainline even where you're attaching it to a slightly curved front.  In an ideal world this trim would be stitched right sides together, folded over and then slip-stitched closed on the wrong side.  I didn't want to hand stitch, however, so I carefully, carefully stitched this with my machine.  I even used a little double-sided fusible web to hold things in place.  Also in that ideal world, the trim would be silk.  My cotton sateen looks great, but it's a little heavy, frankly.

Enough about kimonos.  Here are some gratuitous chihuahua shots from this morning.









I'm fried and eager to move on.

In closing, have you ever made a kimono robe?  Was it easy or hard?

Have a great day, everybody!

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