I know what you're thinking...
How does Peter maintain such a youthful complexion?
The answer is clean living and generous applications of almond oil. But enough about me. Let's talk about my newsboy cap.
I finished the cap this afternoon. This is my very first attempt and I consider it a wearable muslin. But it is fully lined, has a grosgrain ribbon inside band, and a covered button on top. I did not add a snap to the brim; I didn't think it was necessary, but it would be easy enough to add a stitch to secure the front of the hat to the brim if I wanted to.
As far as the size, I consider this hat to be on the outer edge of acceptable. I know that yesterday a number of you were offended by what looked to you like a limp pancake hanging off my head. I think you'll agree that with the lining, the cap has considerably more poof or do I mean puff? Speaking of poofs, not just anyone can wear a hat like this but I think it suits me.
The larger diameter gives it a more vintage look, and since I'm vintage myself, it's fine. That said, next time I'll try for something ever-so-slightly smaller.
Here's how I finished the cap:
1) I sized a piece of narrow polyester ribbon to my head (measuring where I want the hat to sit), attached the two ends, and sewed it to the hat, approximately 1/2" in from the edge. If the hat's edge is a bit too wide for the ribbon, it can either be eased into the ribbon, or the seam allowances can be widened slightly to narrow the cap edge. I did a bit of both. (Visible gathers are a nyet-nyet.) This ribbon and its seam allowance will be turned to the inside of the hat.
2) Using my old deconstructed cap as a model, I cut my lining (out of the other free fabric I found on the weekend).
Then I sewed the lining together and stitched it to the inside edge of the cap.
3) Finally, I cut a strip of 1 1/2" wide grosgrain ribbon I had on hand and lapped it to the outer hat edge (i.e., the right side). I attached it with a stretch stitch, not for stretch but because it combines a straight stitch and a zigzag. (This would have looked prettier if I'd used a narrower stitch length, but it's very secure as-is.) I then pressed the ribbon band to the inside of the hat.
The stitches do go through the cardboard brim at the brim's inner edge. (One reason not to use hard plastic: you might have a hard time stitching through it.)
I didn't use interfacing in my band. Instead of ribbon you could certainly use an interfaced bias strip like my commercially made hats do. The ribbon, which I believe is rayon, is softer, however. (You can loosely hand baste the inner edge of the ribbon to the lining to anchor it inside, if you choose.)
4) I made a covered button from one of my covered button kits, and sewed the button to the top of the hat.
And that's it!
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:
1) Will you make available a PDF of your pattern?
Yes, eventually. You could probably make one on your own -- the shape is basic:
If you have a 22" head, as I do, and since you have 8 pieces, if each piece has a 1/4" seam allowance, then each piece will measure 3 1/4" inches at the point where the hat will go around your head (i.e, the bottom edge, above the seam allowance). It's all very approximate -- a lot depends on how thick your band will be, as well as your brim. You must make sure that when you add your ribbon band, the hat fits comfortably. If it makes your head ache, it's too tight.
2) You used cardboard in your brim. What if it rains?
If it rains, I will take the hat off. A little moisture will not ruin the brim; the brim of the commercial hat I took apart was also cardboard.
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| Commercial hat brim is made from firm cardboard. |
3) How big is too big for a newsboy cap?
It's really your call. Consider the following...
4) What fabrics work best for a cap like this?
You can make a newsboy cap out of linen, denim, cotton poplin, wool, pretty much anything. Fabrics without much body should be interfaced (sew-in or fusible).
If you have any other questions about making a newsboy cap, I'd be happy to answer them. I'm not an expert, but I can share what I know.
Have a great day, everybody!
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