Wednesday, July 8, 2015

Susan's New Wrap Skirt Muslin + Back to the Bodice!



Susan came over for a fitting this evening; the dogs were so excited!

I made a new wrap skirt muslin with an overlap that extends 6" beyond the center front line instead of 3" (as in the earlier version).  It's much more flattering this way.  I chose not too add darts to the overlap even though it creates some asymmetry in front; I may change my mind.  (I'd have to add darts to the facing too.)  Do you think it looks odd?

I added 1" to the skirt length but Susan's wondering if it isn't more flattering shorter.  I made the wrap skirt muslin out of a very soft cotton sheet -- I wanted something that had more drape, like her final skirt will have.  It has a texture similar to wool crepe.



It fit quite well.  Of course a skirt will shift a bit when you move in it, sit down, stand up, etc., but my horizontal and vertical balance lines stayed put.  I added a 1/2" waistband that buttons along the overlap.



Susan likes her skirts narrow, and she was concerned that the wrap skirt might look too A-line.  I explained that the hip-to-hem line is straight but an option would be to peg it a bit.  I think it looks flattering as-is, and the vertical line created by the overlap elongates her lower body.

Susan liked the look of an oversized pin along the edge of the overlap (like you'd find on a kilt), just to keep the skirt from spreading too much.  I might try to work that into the design (but with a better looking pin).



I know it's hard to tell from the angle of the photos and Susan's wearing flats, but does the skirt look too long to you?

Susan also tried on the straight skirt muslin again.  This skirt will not have a waistband, but rather a ribbon facing.  I think it's good to go.  It's about 1" shorter than the wrap skirt.  (A stiffer fabric seems to look better shorter.)





Finally, Susan tried on the bodice again.  I think I'm ready to use this to create a front-buttoning blouse (muslin), either with cap sleeves or three-quarter sleeves.  Since the blouse will made be in a soft fabric, I'm reluctant to overfit the stiff muslin bodice.  I may actually unpin the back darts since she's going to need some ease back there once sleeves are attached (as a number of you reminded me). 







And that's it!  I am excited to start looking at fabrics, which I hope to do before the weekend.  I would love to have something ready for Susan by next week.

Have a great day, everybody!

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