Back to School -- First Patternmaking Class!

I went back to school yesterday!

Actually, yesterday was our second class; I'd missed the first one as I was on vacation.  I nearly didn't get into Patternmaking at FIT at all because by the time I tried to register, all three sections of the class were full (they're each limited to 18 students) and for some reason they weren't maintaining waiting lists.  From Provincetown I managed to get someone in the department to find out if any of the professors would be willing to take one more student.  Fortunately for me, someone was: Professor Tamanaha.

I owned most of the supplies we'll be using already, with the exception of an L-shaped ruler, which I picked up locally on Tuesday.  The supply list includes muslin, pencils, rulers, pins, tape -- about what you'd expect.  I'm one of only two guys in the class; the rest are women.  There are a few people around my age in the class but most seem to be undergraduates or maybe just a little older than that.

The room is full of Alva body forms and each student will choose a form to work with over the semester (or so it seems).  I think most of the first class was focused on how to take the necessary measurements of the body form; luckily I was familiar with most of these measurements already.  We were given handouts on what to measure and then how to use the measurements to draft a basic sleeveless front and back bodice to fit the body form we'd chosen.







We spent most of the 3-1/2 hour class drafting, with the professor first demonstrating at the blackboard, and then all of us students working on our own.  The time flew by, though by 10 pm I was pretty fried.  I like the professor a lot -- very clear and also helpful.

Our only assignment is to complete our bodice drafts but since I finished mine in class, I'm basically homework free.  (If there's time it might be fun to draft for the body form I have at home too.)

I really enjoy all the measuring, calculating, and drafting: I find it very satisfying.  I've already done some drafting, albeit using a different formula than the one being taught in this class, and that helps tremendously.   (Clearly there are a number of different formulas people use to draft bodices, maybe with the same results and maybe not.)  So that was class #1!

Meanwhile I've been busy working on another shirt muslin (below), which I'm making entirely on my Elna Grasshopper.  I love sewing with it, though I'm not used to working on a free arm: I may consider setting up the table using the metal carrying case after all -- we'll see. 



And that's it!

Anyone ever taken a patternmaking class out there? If so, how was it?

Have a great day, everybody!

Home Again + TWO New Sewing Machines!

Friends, you can exhale -- I'm back!

We had a lovely time in Provincetown, MA, where we ate lobster, swam, read, and just relaxed. 

We heard octogenarian songbird Marilyn Maye perform and she was terrific --AND we sat three rows behind -- no joke -- Bob Mackie!

If you follow me on Instagram, you've likely seen enough chihuahua photos to last a lifetime, but it was fun posting there in real time.  I'm very sold on Instagram!

Now, onto the BIG news: I have TWO new (to me) sewing machines in my life.  Well, one isn't quite in my life yet since it won't be delivered till Wednesday, but it is very close.  It's an Elna Grasshopper I won last week on eBay and this time I'm hoping for a smooth transaction, unlike my last Elna drama.  Perhaps some of my longtime readers are wondering if I hadn't already owned an Elna Grasshopper.  The answer is, yes, but in a fit of overzealous decluttering a few years ago, I sold it.  It's one of the few sewing machines that I've wanted to replace -- actually, the only one. 

Meanwhile, today at the flea market I stumbled upon this:



No, I didn't buy the stuffed hen in the basket, but just minutes later I saw this:



Now you know that I love those black Singer 15's -- they're great machines.  This one, it seems, is a 15-30.  It probably originally came with a larger spoked handwheel for treadling, and I'm guessing the owner had it replaced with a smaller wheel and had the machine wired into its current wooden case (in excellent condition, complete with functioning lock and key) that operates with a knee lever.  This was likely done many, many decades ago (1940's?), judging by the condition of much of the wiring.



The seller was asking $50 which certainly seemed fair, but I was on the fence.  When 20 minutes later he said I could have it for $25, I was sold, or rather it was, to me.  I rolled it home (with the aid of a handcart) after lunch and inspected my purchase more closely.  The machine turned freely and the decals (called Tiffany) looked beautiful, if a bit grimy.  According to the serial number, the machine was produced April, 1910.  It's my oldest machine.




 





I've already rewired the main cord.  The motor (an Amsco, not a Singer) runs quietly; the knee lever works well.  The machine's missing its belt so I'll have to pick one up this week.  Otherwise, it's complete: bobbin case, bobbin, even a spool of thread.

Best of all, it sews a lovely, balanced stitch (I turned the wheel by hand).



Nice addition to the family, no?

In other news, I've signed up for a patternmaking class at FIT that will meet on Wednesday nights from now untll December.  I'm very happy to be returning to school to broaden my skills.

In closing, I hope the summer has wound down well for all of you.  I'm excited about what's next.

Have a great day, everybody!

(Marilyn sang this song at our show last week and blew us all away.)

I'll See You In September!

Vacation Eve!

I have not been out of town in a very long time and I'm really looking forward to a break in my routine.  Can't wait to eat some lobster!



I spent most of today sewing what I think is going to be a very beautiful shirt (I'm a very last-minute packer).  I love the fabric and it's a pleasure to sew with.



Oddly enough, though I have many, many shades of blue thread, I didn't have the right one for this particular blue, so early this morning I whizzed up to Sil Thread on 38th St., where of course I found what I needed.  Love that place!



The back yoke of the shirt is cut on the bias.  It's subtle but I like it.



Here's a little video of me topstitching -- not sure if you have to have an Instagram account to see it, hope not.

I also needed a contrast fabric for the solid blue below right, a very different blue from the one up top.  The print I chose (on the left) is likely to be used for the inside collar, inside pocket flaps -- if there are any -- and maybe the front placket on the button (right) side, which is largely covered by the buttonhole (left) side.  Of course, on a woman's blouse it's just the opposite.   Anyway, it's not going to be highly visible but will add a bit of interest.



And that's it.  I've been running a lot lately, and Provincetown is one of my all-time favorite places to run (but not to swim, oddly enough).  I've been adjusting to the most minimal running shoes I've ever worn, called Zero shoes.  They're the closest thing to barefoot and I'm totally sold on them.  I wear mine with five-toed socks.  Pretty wacky, right?



In closing, I wish all of you a great week and I will see you soon! 

PS -- I should be posting daily to Instagram if you want to see some vacay pics before my return.  Have smartphone, will travel!

The Mystery of Phoebus Dressmaking Patterns

So I was surfing aimlessly through the vintage pattern pages over at Etsy, as I am wont to do from time to time, when I stumbled upon this.

Perhaps these dressmaking patterns, produced in 1975 by the Phoebus Publishing Company and distributed by Columbia House, are familiar to you.  I'd never heard of them, though I had seen a few for sale upon reflection; originally I thought they were just Big 4 patterns missing their envelopes.

There were 80 in all and they included multi-sized patterns for women, children, men, and even dolls!













Many were multi-sized.  I think you were expected to trace them.



I like the fact that there were only diagrams of the finished garments so, using them today, you're not distracted by photographs (which can look extremely dated) or campy illustrations.

I'm intrigued, readers.  You can find whole sets of these for sale and at decent prices if you're willing to hunt.  The whole thing sounds a bit like those book-of-the-month club offerings or those recipe cards I'd see advertised on TV when I was growing up.  Like the recipe cards, I believe these patterns came with their own avocado green storage container!

In closing, can anybody solve the mystery of Phoebus?  Did you ever own these or -- gasp! -- sew one of them?

Since I still have a bag of 85 unloved patterns leftover from MPB Day, I'm not sure I'm ready to bring 80 more patterns into my life at this moment, but you never know.  I mean, if the price is right....

Have a great day, everybody!

The Scary World of Sewing Labels (and what they should say)

I feel like now that I'm doing a lot of sewing for others, it's time to order some custom labels.

I mean, I think most clients would prefer to have a garment with a label in it, don't you?  It's part of the package.



Labels are something I've never thought about until now.  I know a lot of people like them, even for themselves or, especially, for gifts.

I've done a little research and there are countless places that will run up some embroidered labels for you at a pretty fair price, with as many options of sizes, colors, images, and wording as a person could wish.



I know I don't want one of those "sewn with love by _______" labels, not that I don't love sewing of course.  I just don't want to come across crafty or homespun.

I came up with these (below) on my own; the color choice was random but I did choose the fonts.





I think that says it all, don't you?

Or doesn't it say enough?

You may be wondering why I'm not using Male Pattern Boldness.  For one thing, it's a little too long, and for another, it's a bit -- dare I say it? -- silly.

I've seen labels that include phone numbers and websites, but if someone sees your label and wants to know more, wouldn't they just Google it?  I would.

A friend who's very happy with her labels recommended a place called CustomLabelsForU.com.  I haven't called them yet but I may give them a buzz tomorrow.  I envision these labels being attached to the inside yoke of my shirt, either stitched all around or attached with a satin stitch in four corners.  Does that sound right?  (So I would want what they refer to as a "straight cut" -- or something with folds?)

I envision this type of thing (non-scratchy, btw):



If you have any recommendations, I'd love to hear them.

Are you a label-lover, even for the things you sew for yourself?

Have a great day, everybody!

Recent Project Tweaks + MPB Day Reminder

It is not unusual for me to go back and tweak a project even after I (thought I had) finished it.

With a few days' (or weeks') distance, I sometimes see things differently that I had originally.  (Does this every happen to you?)

Case in point: my recently completed striped organic cotton rugby shirt.  When I looked at the photo of myself up top -- which you've already seen if you follow me on Instagram --  I realized that the white cuffs looked a tad too long (and gave me monkey arms).  So this morning, I removed the old cuffs and made new ones that are roughly one inch shorter and have just one button instead of two.



I was also able to correct the stripe-matching issue that eagle-eyed MPB reader Lauriana pointed out earlier in the week (and no, there's no visible difference in sleeve length).  The result is a cuff I'm totally happy with.  When I make this shirt again I may skip the placket and attach a knit cuff -- much easier.



Below you can see the old cuff (on the right) next to the new cuff.



Meanwhile, my blue linen coveralls needed a tweak too.  I wanted to keep the rolled-pant-cuff look from my photo shoot without having to resort to pinning them in place.  I knew I didn't want permanent cuffs in case I want to wear them longer.  So what I did was to add a small buttonhole on each leg seam, and to place a button on the inside near the hem that, when the pants are rolled up twice, fits neatly into the buttonhole.







The cuff still looks loose and casual but I don't have to worry about it rolling down.



Finally, a reminder that we're just one week away from MPB Day (Saturday, August 8).  I'm very excited as many past attendees are returning and lots of new people are coming too.  If you haven't already RSVP'd and wish to attend, please shoot me an email at peterlappinnyc at gmail dot com.  It's always nice to know who's coming, who's missing, etc.

It also looks like we will be able to shop at Metro Textiles as I have arranged with Kashi to have him open on Saturday afternoon.

And that's it!

Are you a secret project-tweaker?

Have a great day, everybody!

Inside Susan's RTW Wardrobe: Exploring Seam Finishes, Facings, et al.

When Susan came over last week, I asked her to bring me samples of some clothes from her wardrobe that fit well and that she likes.

I explored them in detail today because I want to learn how women's RTW garments are finished.  I've made a fair amount of women's clothing over the years but have always followed commercial patterns so I'm not that familiar with what store-bought women's clothing looks like inside.

The first garment I examined is a Trina Turk black pencil skirt -- a cotton/poly blend, I believe, with a bit of Lycra in it.  I'd call this a "better" skirt, the kind you'd find at Nordstrom's or Lord & Taylor (based on my online research).  It's lined and the lining is trimmed with lace.



The lace is serged to the lining and the seam allowance pressed down.



One thing that struck me as unusual is that there's a front zippered fly; I assumed all skirts zippered in back or on the side.





I like how, inside, the lining smoothly covers the outer edges of the fly facing.



In back there's a kick pleat.



The seam allowances are serged, as you'd expect.



There are no darts in front and two approximately 4" darts on either side of the center back seam.



The waistband looks like it's attached from the front and then folded over and stitched in the ditch.  The raw edge is finished with bias tape.





The waistband is lightly interfaced.



This is a nice skirt but I don't care for the front fly.   Would you want that showing when you tucked in your blouse?



I also want to show you some details from Susan's black pique dress from Friday's post.

It's unlined but the front and back neck facings extend into the armholes.  I've read about this way of drafting facings on some sewing blogs but I've never seen this in a commercial pattern.





Susan also brought a floral print cotton golf skirt. The unlined skirt has two darts in front and two in back, all the same length. The waistband is just a facing (interfaced with a tricot fusible) that's folded over and topstitched along the top to hold it in place.. The raw edge is finished with seam binding.















Seam allowances measure 1/2".



I noted that women's waistbands are generally pieced together and (I believe) each piece is curved, in contrast to a casual men's pants waistband that's often just one long straight piece.

 

There's an invisible zipper in back -- broken -- which I offered to repair.



I love looking at ready-to-wear, don't you?  You can learn a lot by seeing how clothes are made in a factory setting.

Yesterday I bought a pattern online with Susan in mind.  We didn't talk about cocktail dresses but I saw this pattern -- Butterick 5599 -- and thought it would really work for Susan's figure, don't you agree?  I've seen some great-looking versions on Pattern Review.


Moving right along, readers, are you following me on Instagram?  I've been using it a lot lately now that I have a smartphone.

It's great way to share things like flea market finds and dumpster dive treasures -- as they happen!  (Lots of dog pics and some street fashion too.)   If you follow me you already know I found a great vintage straw hat this morning as well as some beautiful Russell Wright Steubenville dinnerware to add to my collection!





And that's it!  In closing, does anything about the clothes I've archived surprise you or is this pretty much familiar territory for you (for you women especially)?

Have a great day, everybody!

Caught this woman on the street today -- very successful pattern placement!