Friday, April 4, 2014

Adding a Double-Welt Pocket to My Latest Shirt



I mentioned that in my last menswear sewing class, Professor B. showed a small group of us how to make a double-welt opening, presumably for a pocket.  (I described the method in Wednesday's post; the sample is above.)

Could I add a double-welt breast pocket to my purple plaid and tiny floral fabric shirt?  It would mean -- gulp -- cutting through my shirt front.  If I messed up the shirt would be ruined.

Here's a photo of the look I was going for.  You don't see shirts with double-welt pockets too often.  It's a lot of added work and a shirt pocket is mainly for show, imo.  Still, it's a nice touch in a contrasting fabric.



I decided to go for it.  I made my welts narrow -- each finished welt measures 1/4", and the width of the pocket opening is just 1/2". 

I interfaced each welt, folded it in half and stitched it down the middle.  Then I attached it to the shirt, where I had ruled just a single center line.  Next I CAREFULLY cut through the center slit and pulled the welts through the shirt.  Oh yeah -- I interfaced each end of the opening, but not the whole thing.



I decided to edgestitch the welts around the whole pocket opening.  I didn't really have to.

Next, on the inside of the shirt I added a basic patch pocket in the same floral fabric as the welts.



I measured carefully and topstitched the pocket on from the right side of the shirt, in white thread.





So here's the finished shirt, all hemmed, complete with buttonholes and buttons, and now boasting a double-welt breast pocket!





Did I do this partially to show off my skills to Professor B?  How could you even suggest such a thing!

A few more details:









And that's it, readers.   I'm happy with this shirt; I used up some fabric I'd had in my stash for a long, long time.  I know I'll wear it even if the fit isn't perfect.  (Honestly, is fit EVER perfect, especially if you want to be able to breathe/move/eat/etc?)

Have a great day, everybody!

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